The language of waves and the wave equation
Five words and two equations describe every wave you will meet.
A progressive (travelling) wave transfers energy from one place to another without transferring matter — the particles of the medium simply oscillate about fixed positions. Five quantities describe any wave, and getting their definitions exact earns easy marks.
- Amplitude () — the maximum displacement of a particle from its equilibrium (rest) position. Larger amplitude ⇒ more energy.
- Wavelength () — the distance between two adjacent points that are in phase (e.g. crest to crest, or compression to compression), in metres.
- Frequency () — the number of complete oscillations passing a point per second, in hertz (Hz).
- Period () — the time for one complete oscillation, in seconds.
- Speed () — the distance a wavefront travels per second, in m s⁻¹.
Two equations connect them. First, frequency and period are reciprocals:
Second — the single most-used equation in this unit — the wave equation:
This follows directly from "speed = distance ÷ time": in one period the wave advances exactly one wavelength , so .
A useful consequence of : when a wave passes from one medium into another (e.g. sound from water into air, or light into glass), the frequency stays the same because it is fixed by the source — it is the speed and the wavelength that change together.
- Amplitude = maximum displacement from equilibrium; wavelength = adjacent in-phase points.
- and the wave equation .
- In one period the wave advances exactly one wavelength.
- Frequency is set by the source and is unchanged between media; speed and wavelength change.
See the full worked example for transverse and longitudinal waves →