How waves form
Wind blows over water β friction β ripples β waves.
Waves are caused by WIND blowing over water. Friction transfers energy from the wind into the water, creating ripples that grow into waves.
Three factors affecting wave size.
- Wind STRENGTH β stronger wind = bigger waves.
- Wind DURATION β longer it blows, more energy transferred.
- FETCH β distance over which the wind blows uninterrupted across water. Longer fetch = bigger waves.
Wave anatomy.
- Crest β top of wave.
- Trough β bottom.
- Wavelength β distance between crests.
- Wave height β vertical from trough to crest.
- Swash β water moving UP the beach after the wave breaks.
- Backwash β water flowing back DOWN to the sea.
Cambridge tip. Mark scheme rewards specific factors β wind STRENGTH, DURATION, FETCH β all three.
- Waves caused by WIND.
- Size: strength + duration + fetch.
- Energy transferred via friction.
See the full worked example for coastal processes and wave dynamics β