Summary
Coastal processes involve the interaction of waves, wind, and weathering to shape coastal landscapes through erosion, transportation, and deposition. Understanding these processes helps explain the development and change of coastal landforms.
- Coast — the area where the land meets the sea Example: A beach is part of the coast.
- Erosion — the wearing away of rock and soil Example: Cliffs being worn down by waves.
- Transportation — the movement of sediment along the coast Example: Sand being moved by longshore drift.
- Deposition — the dropping of sediment when waves lose energy Example: Formation of a beach.
- Weathering — the breakdown of rocks in place Example: Rocks breaking apart due to freeze-thaw cycles.
- Hydraulic Action — wave power compresses air in cracks, breaking rock apart Example: Waves crashing against a cliff.
- Corrasion (Abrasion) — waves throw sand and pebbles against cliffs Example: Sandpaper effect on rock surfaces.
- Corrosion (Solution) — seawater chemically dissolves soluble rocks Example: Limestone cliffs dissolving.
- Attrition — rocks and pebbles collide, becoming smaller and smoother Example: Smooth pebbles on a beach.
- Longshore Drift — the zig-zag movement of sediment along the coast Example: Sediment moving down a beach.
- Constructive Waves — build up beaches through deposition Example: Wide sandy beaches in summer.
- Destructive Waves — erode coastlines and remove sediment Example: Narrower beaches in winter.
- Wave Refraction — bending of waves around headlands Example: Erosion of headlands and deposition in bays.
Exam Tips
Key Definitions to Remember
- Coast
- Erosion
- Hydraulic Action
- Corrasion (Abrasion)
- Corrosion (Solution)
- Attrition
- Transportation
- Longshore Drift (LSD)
- Swash
- Backwash
- Deposition
- Constructive Waves
- Destructive Waves
- Wave Refraction
Common Confusions
- Mixing up constructive and destructive waves
- Confusing hydraulic action with corrasion
Typical Exam Questions
- What is longshore drift? Longshore drift is the zig-zag movement of sediment along the coast caused by waves approaching at an angle.
- How do constructive waves differ from destructive waves? Constructive waves build beaches with strong swash, while destructive waves erode beaches with strong backwash.
- What is wave refraction and its effect on coastlines? Wave refraction is the bending of waves around headlands, concentrating energy on headlands and dispersing it in bays.
What Examiners Usually Test
- Understanding of coastal processes and their effects
- Ability to explain the formation of coastal landforms
- Knowledge of wave types and their impact on the coast