How waves form
Wind blows over water → friction → ripples → waves.
Waves are caused by WIND blowing over water. Friction transfers energy from the wind into the water, creating ripples that grow into waves.
Three factors affecting wave size.
- Wind STRENGTH — stronger wind = bigger waves.
- Wind DURATION — longer it blows, more energy transferred.
- FETCH — distance over which the wind blows uninterrupted across water. Longer fetch = bigger waves.
Wave anatomy.
- Crest — top of wave.
- Trough — bottom.
- Wavelength — distance between crests.
- Wave height — vertical from trough to crest.
- Swash — water moving UP the beach after the wave breaks.
- Backwash — water flowing back DOWN to the sea.
Cambridge tip. Mark scheme rewards specific factors — wind STRENGTH, DURATION, FETCH — all three.
- Waves caused by WIND.
- Size: strength + duration + fetch.
- Energy transferred via friction.
See the full worked example for coastal processes and wave dynamics →